145 steps to make a hockey skate

145 step process to make a hockey skate? Wow...I don't know what number I would have guessed, but it sure wasn't 145. Below is an informative video -- I learned a lot, laughed, cried, and will write to Bauer to give the sewing lady a raise. (If you're interested in seeing how figure skates are made, I got a neat tour of the Harlick skating boot factory last year and took photos.)

My $500 blades also wash my car and walk the dog

When I told a friend that I paid $500 for my Wilson Pattern 99 blades, he wanted to know what else the blades did besides be attached to the boot and allow me to skate. Why do blades cost so much, from $100 to an astounding $600!?!

Here's a short primer on why I believe the cost is what it is. If you examine your blade, it looks like one piece of metal, but in fact, it is three separate parts melded together: the toe plate, the heel plate, and the blade part that actually touches the ice. These pieces are punched out on large presses. The blades are cut out of long strips of steel which vary in carbon content depending on the quality of the blade that is being made. So a Pattern 99 blade will be cut from a different grade of steel than blades that come attached to skating boots that you'll find at a sporting goods store. The better grade the steel, the better it can keep its edge. As a skater becomes more advanced, these factors become important in performing more difficult moves.

There are also modifications found on the more expensive blades which make the manufacturing process more laborious, such as having extra toe picks on the side for supposedly better control on jumps.

And unfortunately, there is a psychological aspect to having expensive blades. I started out with Wilson Coronation Ace (about $100 back then) and changed to Wilson Pattern 99 (about $400) within a year. The main reason was that my coach at the time skated in Pattern 99s, and when you're starting out, you tend to want to emulate your coach as close as possible. Now 15 years later, can I skate just as well in Coronation Ace blades? Probably, but once I need new blades, it'll be another set of Pattern 99s.

To rent or to buy

When is the right time to invest in your own pair of skates? And it is an investment - a decent pair of skates will start in the $100 range and that's not including the blades, which are generally purchased separately, and will start out at $100 also.

Some people find great joy in gliding around in a pair of rentals day in and day out. Others have specific goals in mind, such as spins, and when you begin to have goals that require a certain level of technical skill, consider purchasing your own pair of good skates. Good skates.

The hallmarks of a good-fitting pair of skates are a snug glove-like fit around the entire foot (especially at the heel), and good ankle support. After fully lacing up your skates, you should be able to wiggle your toes very slightly and you should definitely not feel as though your foot can move around in the boot easily. Consider these three factors when choosing your boot: your skating level, your weight and how often you skate. Work with a good skate fitter at your pro shop to get the best possible fit.

Finally, do not waste time and money investing in boots that are too stiff, hoping that they will last longer. You will quickly stop using them out of sheer frustration (because you can't bend your ankles and skate properly) and pain (because, well, just pain). Brand new skating boots hate to sit quietly in your closet. Boots should be stiff enough to take a few weeks to break in, depending on how often you skate. After all, you are softening up leather to conform to your foot's contours so there is a breaking in period, but they should never feel as though they're taking "forever" to break in.

Boots and blades - so many choices!

Does skating seem more complicated the more you know? Do people ask what boots you’re wearing? Do they follow up with what blades you’re using?

If you’re an avid skater like me, these are perfectly normal questions and you begin to take note of the type of boots and blades worn by skaters you admire. There are a lot of choices out there and you tend to go with what your coach and/or fellow skaters swear by. For me, I’ve skated in Harlick boots and John Wilson Pattern 99 blades for the last 10 years and have been generally happy with the quality and customer service. Reidell also makes great boots as does SP-Teri. I’ve also heard good things about Risport, Jackson and Klingbeil boots. (Note: Klingbeil only makes custom boots.) To determine which boot is right for you, try on several different pairs at your pro shop and ask fellow skaters what they skate in and why.  You’d be surprised at how strong some opinions are!

In terms of blades, most skaters I know use blades manufactured by John Wilson and MK.

Finally, I cannot overemphasize the importance of proper mounting and sharpening. This is where a great skate technician comes in. Again, the best resource for me has been word of mouth. I recently purchased new boots and had the blades mounted by Rich at the Pro Shop at Mennan Rink in New Jersey. Rich did an amazing job balancing the blades in terms of mounting them slightly to the outside (because I put more weight to the outside of my feet when I walk and skate) and using a felt wedge to enhance the balance on my left boot. You know when the blade placement is perfect because you're hitting your spins like never before, your turns are better - they feel better in fact, and you can hold edges with more ease. The downside of getting to this point is that there is a trial and error period where the mounting is not "right" and only time and patience will correct it.